Six weeks on the road and six states behind us — California, Arizona, New Mexico, Texas, Louisiana and Mississippi. Yesterday, under sunny skies and warm temperatures, we rolled into Alabama.
The sign indicating the state line was riddled with bullet holes. I hope that is not an omen. We’re spending the next two days enjoying the beach and exploring the trails of Gulf Shores State Park before heading on to Florida
Wednesday for the final leg of this adventure.
The highlight of our excursion to the beautiful city of Baton Rouge, the historic capitol of Louisiana, was lunch Louie’s Diner for catfish po’boys and strawberry smoothies. Delicious!
Our campsite that night at Jim’s Place was a front-row seat onto the Mississippi River. Better yet, it was free for cyclists. The shower was interesting. There were two taps but no shower head. The water shot right out of the wall. I had to stand on tiptoes to wet my hair and face, then direct the flow of water onto the rest of me.
Much of the south is very poor. Mobile homes are everywhere and it looks as though many have been flooded out or destroyed by one of the many storms that come through this part of the States. It saddens me to see the conditions in which people live. When the home is no longer habitable, or the vehicle driveable, it is simply left in the yard to rot.
A Day’s Ride with the Over-the-Hill Gang
Leaving Poplarville, Mississippi on Saturday, a group of cyclists sped by. I caught up to them and they invited me to join their ride. This wild bunch, the youngest of whom was 66 and the oldest well into his 70s were doing the Southern Tier as well. It was great to ride with someone else for a change. I thoroughly enjoyed the day, which ended at Bluff Creek campsite and a swim on the white sandy beach of Bluff Creek with the locals.
That night we had a terrible thunderstorm and the rain continued into the next morning. When I got ready to go, the Wild Bunch was already up and out and well down the road.
Texas is great, but it’s so darned big, I thought we’d never get through it! In fact, I almost didn’t!
We have been pretty lucky with the weather here in the south. In fact, when I see the reports of the snow and cold back home, I think it’s fantastic here! In five weeks of riding, we’ve only had two days of rain. But last Tuesday’s storm was a real doozy. The day started out very promising. The small towns all along the route are huge antique markets, set up with both temporary and permanent antique display areas. In fact, the sign outside Wendleton proclaimed, “A little drinking town with a big antique problem.” There’s even a gasoline alley, featuring the signs of a dozen or more now-defunct gas stations.
I was having a great ride through the hills, even though the clouds around me were getting darker. I assumed it was like back home,where you’d get a few drops of rain falling. Then it might get a bit heavier, and eventually it might pour. In other word, you can see and feel it coming. Not here. The skies cracked open with thunder, and totally dumped on me. I ran for shelter under a big tree (I know that’s not safe in an electric storm, but it wasn’t the tallest tree in the area.)
The wind lashed at my back, the lightning flashed all around me, and the water moved in waves across the road. I waited and waited for Myrna to arrive while shivering and feeling hypothermia coming on. I thought I was going to die on that lonely Texas road.
By the time Myrna arrived with the van, I was almost frozen. I stripped off my wet clothes, climbed naked into the sleeping back, held the dog close for added warmth, and had a couple of nips of Crown Royal to warm my innards. Myrna drove on to Independence, where we parked, with the furnace on, and napped until the storm passed.
We camped at the municipal park in Navasota, cleaned off in what may have been the nastiest shower we’ve yet encountered , did the laundry and prepared for our excursion to Houston the next day. I met Charlie Dominguez and Dave Bourbeau at the Golder office to catch up on the latest company news. It was great to see them both, however brief our visit.
Then on to south Houston, to see former (and still honorary) Calgary Frontrunner Simon and Kirby and their three ultra-cute dogs — Paco, Lester and Rhys.
We went to Barnaby’s for dinner, a unique restaurant where dogs are welcomed — as are their owners!
When I awoke the next morning, Simon had already returned from a run before the day got too humid. We enjoyed a nice breakfast together, then hit the road, loaded with goodies Simon had packed for us. I was glad to leave the big city and get back on my bike and onto the back roads through the Sam Houston forest.
We get the last camping site at Cagle Campground on Lake Conroe — a gorgeous spot with big trees, big sites, bbq pits, hiking trails — the works. I knew that with the long weekend coming up, we may not be as lucky the net couple of days.
Critters, large and small. Some dead, some not!
There are a lot of critters on the Texas highways — most of them roadkill. Rabbits, raccoons, armadillos, turtles, possoms and bullfrogs, My experience with snakes last year had me a bit jittery about stepping off the shoulder, because there seem to be a lot more of them here. Most of those who have ventured out onto the highway are dead. So I am cycling merrily along, weaving between the asphalt repair strips, until one of those strips starts moving. YIKES! It’s a black snake! I leapt about two feet out of the saddle, and had to get my heart back in my chest. I console myself by thinking he was probably more afraid of me than I was of him. Yeah, right!
Louisiana, Here We Come!
Eastern Texas and Western Louisiana feature lots of mobile homes. One dilapidated dwelling with a tarp covering the broken roof had a sign posting, “You come lootin’ I come shootin’!” And there are LOTS of churches. In one small town of 500, I counted 11 of them, including one massive, brand new Baptist congregation. All are spiffed up for the Easter weekend, with brightly colored bunnies and eggs, promoting their family services.
We entered Louisiana at Bon Weir. The names are now sounding distinctly more French (Villes Platte, Mamou, Morauville and the restaurants feature more cajun than TexMex. A long day’s ride on Sunday brought us to Chicot State Park on Lake Chicot. Having just ridden 150k through the heat and humidity, I asked if the lake was good for swimming. “Well, Ma’am. I wouldn’t, she said matter-of-factly.”
Four weeks of cycling the Southern Tier and we’re almost through Texas. Moving from the desert into the green, rolling hill country has been a joy. For my Calgary friends, it’s like Springbank x 1,000! This is Lance Armstrong country and the land of LBJ. Their tire tracks and footprints are evident everywhere.
Riding here in the Spring has meant seeing the trees turn green; the profusion of colorful wildflowers along the roadside; the motorcyclists like swarms of wasps; and the baby lambs trying out their wobbly legs for the first time. One ewe had triplets, all with black little faces, jumping around her. Another one was going for a walk while her baby chased her crying, “Ma-a-a-a! Ma-a-a-a-!” Just like their human counterparts at the Walmart on any Saturday morning.
Communication all in order
One of the learnings we had from riding cross country last year was that we had to find a better way of communicating between Myrna in the van and me on the bike. Although the stories of our regularly getting lost may have seemed amusing, they were very frustrating, and potentially dangerous.
This time, Myrna has set us up with US phones on a solid network, and an app that helps us keep track of one another. This has reduced the amount of foul language on the road, and prevented decapitation of one or the other of us. I usually get a 3-hour head start before I see the van coming up behind me — just in time for lunch! You can imagine how envious my fellow cyclists are.
Today is Myrna’s birthday, and her wish was for a day to please just rest! Happy Birthday, Myrna!
Catching up to The Womens Tour — at the Winery (where else?)
This is a popular time of year to ride the Southern Tier. I have already mentioned the Adventure Cycling group. On the route as well, are Jackie’s Women’s Tour and Bubba’s Pampered Pedallers. The women’s tour left San Diego a few days ahead of us, but I caught up to them (a couple of them, anyway), looking fresh, relaxed and enjoying a tasting at the Lost Maples Winery. I joined them for a sip or two –or three — and continued to the campground with a bottle of 2016 Pinot in my water bottle cage.
Texas Floods and Texas Food
The other constant in Springtime Texas is the flooding of the rivers. We were warned that we always need a Plan B route, because roads are often closed due to flooding. When I saw a border patrol guard waving at me from the side of the road, I thought maybe he recognized me from the APB sent out the week before, about a cyclist crossing the tunnel under the Interstate. But no, he was just giving me a friendly wave. And then he told be the river ahead was flooded about 20 miles ahead, but that I should be able to make it through. I sure hoped so –I’d hate to pedal all that way back!
Riding through the Nueces River as it streamed over the highway was just part of the adventure, repeated again over the Guadeloupe.
And the food in Texas — yummy! Everyone knows about the Mexican, the barbecue and the steaks. But I discovered the Texas world of grocery shopping at HEB! “I think it stands for Howard E. Butts,” the girl at the checkout told me of the store that has everything. “People come here all the way from out of state to buy groceries here.” And now from Canada as well!
On the menu for Myrna’s birthday tonight — a big barbecued Texas steak, baked potato and salad, accompanied by fine Texas wine and finished with pecan pie!
Looking forward to seeing our friends in Houston this week, then it’s on to Louisiana!
It’s been quite the ride since last we touched base from Silver City, New Mexico. Three things made a huge impression on me: first, the huge fields of chili peppers and the endless groves of pecan trees. I didn’t realize the US produces 85% of the world’s pecans.
Oh, my god. My son, Markus would think he had died and gone to heaven — hot, spicy Mexican food for dinner, pecan pie for dessert, washed down with a growler of local craft beer! Be warned, though. There were signs everywhere, warning illegal nut-pickers they would be prosecuted to the full extent of the law.
The second thing that really struck me was the ubiquitous presence of the border patrols. Helicopters and drones in the sky; trucks, trailers and ATVs on the ground; lights, cameras and check-stop stations on the highway to make sure everyone is legitimately in the country. I hope they’re not after me. The instructions on my map were clear: “all bicyclists MUST stop at the border patrol station.” At the time I saw the upcoming station, I was riding the Interstate frontage road opposite the flow of traffic on the highway. At the designated offramp, the map then plainly said, “turn right and go under I-10.” There was no going under. I think it should have said “over” but I guessed there must be another exit close by. I was wrong. By now I was long past the station, and the road I was on was ending. Should I chance running across 6 lanes of the interstate, where trucks were going 110 mph? Or double back and cross over the ramp? Ah! A third option presented itself. A tunnel appeared. I assume it was there to direct flood waters under the highway, but bats and illegal immigrants be damned, I hefted my bike and picked my way through the tunnel and up on the proper side of the Interstate! Problem solved.
Keeping company with trucks
And that’s the third thing — though riding the freeway was OK, it’s not just the speed and noise of the trucks one has to put up with. Those FedEx and Walmart trucks are constantly shedding their tires — and they’re not just rubber. Tiny bits of wire hide in the pavement, just waiting for an unsuspecting cyclist to come by. . . And so I got my first flat, just after exiting the interstate. There were three wire bits lodged in the tire. The one that did the damage was buried half an inch deep. I pulled the offending piece out, just as my support van rolled up. I pulled out a lawn chair, a cold beer and made myself comfortable in the shade of the van whilst doing the repair. Voila!
And since there wasn’t a campsite for another 60 miles, we just stayed drew the curtains and rough camped for the night! It was a fairly remote spot, so Myrna got out her pirate sword and we went through a drill of what we’d do if the banditos attacked. As I found out the next morning, there were very nice “lay-bys” every 20 or so miles up highway 118 that we could have used. Oh, well!
Fellow travelling companions
I have not run in to many other cyclists on this trip. The distances between towns are vast and maybe it’s still early.In any case, there is an Adventure Cycling group that I am leapfrogging.
We met in Alpine, California, again in Silver City, and then again in Marathon, Texas. There were 11 of them — 8 men and three women, plus there two leaders. I stopped to chat with Linda from Dunfermline, Scotland; Pam from Whitefish, Montana; and Andrea from Sacramento, California just as we passed the big open-pit copper mine at Santa Rita, New Mexico. Apparently, it is one of the largest open-pit copper mines in the world. More interesting to me was the story of the mine workers in 1951-52 attempting to strike for better working conditions. Strikes were not legal, however, so the wives, daughters and sisters of the miners took up the picket line. Despite verbal abuse and physical threats, they held their ground, making national news at the time. The movie, “Salt of the Earth” tells their story. Strong, determined women seemed to be the theme of my day.
I crossed over Emory Pass that day, the highest point on the Southern Tier route, and fairly flew the 20 miles of rolling, swooping downhill. Awesome!
The next day the weather turned ugly. Lightning bursts and heavy rain continued through the night. The next morning I set out in the wind and cold, bound for Las Cruces. Myrna and I celebrated our arrival in this beautiful little city with a fabulous Mexican dinner and a couple of huge Margaritas. Mmmmm.
And Now . . . On to Texas!
Not a fan of big cities, we got through El Paso as quickly as possible and began our long journey through Texas. It’s big all right. A sign posted on a barbed wire fence, behind which was scrub desert as far as the eye could see, read: “For Sale. 8,290 Acres.” That’s bigger than some countries!
In Fort Davis, I cycled right in to the Hammerfest Race. Lycra-clad cyclists were everywhere in town and on the roads for miles around. I ran into Chris from Austin and Rick and Tracy from Dallas — all competing in the race. I must have looked goofy in my safety vest and riding sandals!
My Own Hammerfest
Yesterday morning, as the skies cleared from another night of heavy rain I left Marathon and rode like the wind, 186 km (115 miles) to Langtry, made famous by Judge Roy Bean, where we camped for the night. Today we are in Del Rio, home of the Laughlin Air Base and tomorrow we head out to Camp Wood, in the shadow of Pike’s Peak. I think we are about halfway through Texas.
The many lonely miles has given me lots of time to think, and there are always the songs of birds to accompany me, the sightings of desert critters; the colorful blossoms of the cacti; the feel of the sun in my face, the wind at my back and the smell of the soil. I am most definitely living the dream.
Til next time, keep safe and get me back on my bike!
I am in the library at the Western New Mexico University in Silver City. I apologize for being so late in getting out a blog, but this is truly the first opportunity I’ve had to get decent WiFi.
Two weeks on the road have taken me more than 1,200k from San Diego, through the California desert, to Arizona and now into New Mexico.
It has been a fantastic trip. We had the best ribs EVER at Bobby Q’s in Phoenix, the best beer (so far) from Four Peaks Brewing in Arizona, watched the Dodgers play the Brewers, seen the most incredible wild western vistas and met some wonderful people. I’ve crossed the Continental Divide, passed through the great sand dunes. And tomorrow, I climb over Emory Pass, at more than 8,000 feet, the highest point on this trip.
Some days have been hotter ‘n Hades while other times I am fully in my longs and still chilly. I’ll try to capture some of the people I’ve met and the things I’ve experienced so far in the photos below:
This last photo, of me with Donald Trump is “fake news.”
Until next time, keep well, and get me back on my bike!
It’s -15C in Calgary today, snowing, blowing and flippin’ freezing! Rather than wait for spring to arrive, we are hitting the road for another cycling trip. Thanks, Curtis and Gerrick, for attaching the new ladder and bike rack to the rear of the van. So sorry about your frozen fingers.
If all else goes well, tomorrow we head south, along the Pacific Coast to San Diego — in search of sunshine, heat and adventure along the backroads of the southern US. The route will take us through California, Arizona, New Mexico, Texas, Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama –all the way to Florida. In total, about 6,500 km.
I’m so looking forward to spending my days in the saddle, meeting new people, seeing new places and experiencing the beer, barbecue and bourbon for which the south is known. I’ll update this blog every week as a way to keep in touch with friends and family back home.
I completed my ride on Sunday, July 17th. I posted photos of myself at Yorktown, Virginia on Facebook. My non-Facebook friends may be wondering if I ever made it to the finish line and survived. I need to finish the story of this great adventure.
Virginia was made for cyclists. The Blue Ridge Parkway, which overlooks the gorgeous Shenandoah Valley is not open to commercial traffic, is a dream to ride. The route continues onto the quiet roads of the Piedmont, along the James and the Roanoke Rivers — rolling through lush, green countryside — past Civil War battlefields (I was surprised to learn that 80% of the Civil War was fought in Virginia); old plantations; the immaculately-kept mansions and estates of Presidents Jefferson and Monroe and into a number of quaint college towns like Lexington, Ashland and Williamsburg with their beautiful campuses. I felt like I was in a living history book.
And the weather was fantastic! As we here in Canada head into the cooler days of fall, I will look back and think fondly of the days of waking at 6 a.m. with the temperature already hovering around 74 degrees, and heading out in shorts, a jersey and sandals. It did get hot by
midday, but the breeze created while riding, plus the many big shade trees along the road made for very pleasant riding.
Also, I have to note that people in Virginia keep their dogs tied up!
My dog bite experience has provided me a bit of a window into the US healthcare system. Since my initial rabies shots in Wytheville, I have had follow-up shots in Charlottesville and Virginia Beach — each one taking up a half day. If it weren’t for my insurance, I would have had to pay a minimum of $300 for each shot. And you don’t see a doctor or nurse until the billing people are satisfied you’re covered.
I was getting anxious to finish my ride. On Saturday, July 16th, exactly two months from the start of the ride, we reached Ashland, just outside of Richmond. When the ladies at the campground learned that I was about to complete a cross-country bike ride, they gave us the site for free!
One last, long push!
At 158 km, the final day was a long one. Beginning 40 miles west of Williamsburg, the route went onto the Capital Trail, a gorgeous bike trail alongside the highway. There were dozens of cyclists out for a Sunday spin on the cool, shady trail. And the final push
to Yorktown, over the beautiful Colonial Parkway, actually felt like the end of a marathon– coming in to the stadium for the finish. I ended my 10-week journey where the end of the Revolutionary War, in 1781 is commemorated — at the Yorktown Memorial.
From there it was off to the waterfront to dip my front wheel.
We celebrated with a bottle of champagne and take-out ribs from Scoot’s Barbecue, then spent the next day at Virginia Beach (actually, I wanted to spend the rest of my life in Virginia Beach!) before beginning the long trek home.
We arrived home safely in Calgary on Sunday, July 24th.
Some parting thoughts
Completing this trip was the fulfillment of a long-time goal and the memories will be with me for a lifetime. Small things made each day a memorable one and I can say that not a single day went by that I did not experience joy that brought a wide smile to my face. I had a lot of time alone to think and reflect on my life.
In his book, Stumbling Into Happiness, Daniel Gilbert talks about peoples’ ongoing desire to find happiness in their lives; how (and why) it so often eludes them. I find happiness every time I climb on my bike and begin to pedal. These past 10 weeks have afforded me an up-close view of a most wonderful country– from coast to coast. Even more, they have affirmed for me the kindness, neighborliness and goodness of people everywhere. From the guys who pulled Myrna out of the ditch on the Blue Ridge Parkway (that’s her story to tell!); to the gals who loaded up poor Joe and his bike to take him to a hospital; to every truck driver who waited patiently behind me while I slowly made my way up a blind hill; and to every passing motorcyclist who floated me a”low five.” Maybe there’s something disarming about being on a bike, or taking on a big challenge, but people everywhere have been just wonderful.
People ask how Myrna and I managed to spend 12 weeks cooped up in a tiny van. I can honestly say we loved it — 85% of the time. I am lucky to have had Myrna and Basil as my support crew, and travelling in Priscilla was an awesome way to go. One of Myrna’s jobs was to pick up local microbrews along the way, and keep it on ice in the cooler. There were times she failed in her duty, and the only choice was Budweiser or Coors. In my opinion, Bud Light is about the worst beer on the planet! Moose Drool rules!
Many people have told me I am an inspiration to them. I hope that’s true, in that I believe that anyone can complete this trip if they want to — it’s just a question of how long it takes and what their objectives are.
And now, back to the laundry . . .
I have a few days to catch up on chores here at home before heading out to Minnesota for a Family Bike Trip in Paul Bunyan country. WooHoo!
Some gorgeous country in Virginia. It’s lush and green and thoroughly enjoyable riding. We crossed into Virginia on Saturday at the Breaks Interstate Park, one of only two parks in the country shared by two states. They offered up a little Appalachian bluegrass entertainment too.
But I was not able to make it out of Kentucky unscathed. Last week I mentioned the dogs in Kentucky? Well, I was so close! Riding through Combs, in rural Eastern Kentucky, I was chased on both sides by dogs.
I yelled and pedalled harder, but they were faster than me and “Buster” took a chomp of my left calf. My muscles immediately tensed. Youch, that hurt. Medical clinics were not open all weekend and I didn’t get to a hospital until Tuesday, in Wytheville, Virginia. I spent the morning there, and ended up with five shots — one for tetanus and four for rabies. I’ll also need three more rabies booster shots over the next two weeks.
We arrived at Damascus, Virginia on Sunday. This is where the Virginia Creeper bike trail begins. It is a beautiful trail. The creepers actually “clothe” the trunks of the trees. With the sounds of the Holston River running alongside it and the birds singing, I feel like I’m in a Disney movie.
This is also where the Appalachian Trail crosses through. This trail is almost 2200 miles long. Beginning in Georgia, it goes through 14 states — all the way to Boston. This might be another adventure for the bucket list!
People I’ve Met
There are still TransAmer’s heading west. They all warn be about the “big hills” up ahead. I think to myself, you folks don’t know hills like I do! There’s Dan from Baltimore, Austin from Denver, Giancarlo from San Antonio and Gunnar and Julia, a lovely couple from Oslo, Norway, who are journalists doing this ride as an assignment from their paper in Oslo.
This morning I checked in to the library in Radford to participate in a conference call from work but the audio wouldn’t work for me. Maybe it was a sign I am meant to keep riding.
And so I will! Just one week to the Atlantic Coast! I am looking forward to riding the Blue Ridge Parkway through Virginia, and then coasting down to Yorktown and the end of my big adventure.
Cheers to all of you. Thank you for all your encouragement and support.
I didn’t think I’d have much interesting to write since my last post in Missouri. More riding, more hills, more rain. But the week served up some doozies!
It started with me going the wrong way — back west. “Hey!” I thought. “I recognize this flea market . . . and this day care . . . and this gas station. I just saw them a day ago!” The Bike Route 76 signs in Missouri are excellent. You know if you’re on the right road, but it’s up to you to determine what direction you’re going!
Illinois, I barely knew ya
Before long we crossed over the Mississippi River into Illinois on the Chester Truss Bridge made famous in the opening scene of the movie, In the Heat of the Night. Chester, Illinois is home to the creator of Popeye, Elzie Segar. It remains the town’s claim to fame to this day.
I learned that Karin, Gerrick and the kids were in Chicago at the same time as we were in southern Illinois — just five hours away. So near, but yet so far. But we just passed through the lower sliver of this tall, thin state, and we were out before you could say, “I’s strong to the finich ’cause I eats me spinach. I’m Popeye the Sailor Man. Toot toot!”
The riding has been gorgeous all week. The tree canopy covering the small, winding roads, past sprawling estates with huge homes. I also saw, for the first time this trip, vineyards, wineries and even a moonshine distillery. (See, Julie, you should have come with me. Well, maybe not. The wine and the biking might not have mixed so well.”)
Alas, the great bike route signage we’d had in Missouri did not continue into Illinois, and I missed one of the “turn right onto the unsigned road at the Grace Baptist Church.” Nearly got run off the road twice — once by a WalMart truck and once by another semi-trailer truck — before I realized this was not my road, and doubled back to find the church.
We camped in Murphysboro State Park, on beautiful Murphysboro Lake. I was dying for a swim. However, the campground host informed me it is illegal to swim in Illinois State parks. “Are you kidding me?” I asked. “No, Ma’am. $500 fine for swimming in the lake.” Well, I don’t know what happened. Clumsy me, I just fell off that dock and had to swim to save myself. This is the view of the lake from our bedroom window:
Motivation Waning a Bit
So, my friend Don (who’s crossed the country before) told me that everyone experiences some down days on such a trip. I wouldn’t say it was a meltdown (maybe that’s still to come), but I woke up on July 1st not feeling super motivated. I started out late and after only two hours of riding through the quiet countryside, past Devil’s Kitchen and Grassy Lake, I realized I had missed another one of those unmarked turns and ended up on another busy highway. While I tried to plot my next move, I hear a honk behind me. WTF! It was Myrna. She had gone off route too!
We decided to call it an early day at only 43km, and checked in to Fern Clyffe State Park. I had a nap, ate junk food and went for a hike instead. By the next day, I was refreshed and ready to hit the road again. Passing through Elizabethtown, Ill., I asked if there was anything special planned for the 4th of July. “This is it!” I was told. A few vendors were selling pulled pork, baked goodies and T-shirts. OK! We had a pulled pork sandwich to help celebrate. By late afternoon, we were at Cave Rock Springs to catch a tiny ferry over the Ohio River into Kentucky, and by evening we were in Marion, KY, camped in the huge city park.
Welcome to Kentucky, Bubba
Rural Kentucky really IS quite different from what I have experienced so far. The people here speak with a distinctly southern accent. They seem pretty laid back, and that applies to their attitude towards dogs. I’d read the reports of vicious dogs and was very wary whenever I passed a mobile home with a porch and an unfenced yard.
I believe bicycle chasing is an unofficial sport in Kentucky and I had my first encounter early on — with a pit bull and a boxer. My heart rate climbed into the red zone and I pedalled as fast as I could while yelling, “Go Home! Go Home, eh?” in my most assertive Canadian voice.
That’s when I met Joe, the first time. Joe is from Raleigh, N.C. and he was racing the TransAm. He said he was at the tail end, with maybe six racers behind him, that he’d had nine flat tires. He strongly urged me to find some pepper spray for the dogs. He was havi
ng his sister checking online to find somewhere that he could get some for himself. Joe and I rode together for a while, but I don’t think he’d showered or changed his shirt since Oregon — and he was really smelly. Beside that, he kept riding up beside me and then ducking back in single file when a car approached from behind. I thought it was pretty dangerous. So at the next town, I told him I was going to use the washroom, and encouraged him to carry on. We’ll meet Joe again a little later.
I put in a long day of riding. The sky was overcast and it looked like it would rain. When I reached Fordsville, Mark from Oregon flagged me down. He was headed west so he knew what was up ahead. He had a weather app on his phone and said there was a tornado watch in the next county — where I was headed.
Mark, heading west to Oregon
Even if we did continue, he said the campgrounds were all full for the July 4th weekend. We agreed to hunker down there in the city park. And here comes Joe! I tried to flag him down, but he was head-down into the wind, going for it. The rain had started already, and the storm grew worse by the hour, raging through the night and into the next morning.
After several days of “city park” camping, Myrna, who was desperate for a shower, went out in the middle of the night to shower in the rain!
We didn’t get far the next day. Mark had already left when I started out, but the thunderstorms would not let up, so after 20 miles of riding, soaked to the skin and visibility at near zero, we stopped at Becky’s Cafe for breakfast and a coffee, and when it looked like it was going to continue all day, we surrendered and checked in to Falls of Rough State Park, on a beautiful lake.
And here’s Joe again!
Enough already with the loafing around. I needed to get some miles in. And as Willy Gruber says, “Those miles aren’t going to ride themselves!” I was still looking for pepper spray when I stopped at the next gas station. Who was there? Joe! He’d made the same decision not to ride in the storm, and had stayed at a resort overnight. Except now he was repair
ing flat #10 — and the air compressor was not putting out much for pressure. “If it weren’t for bad luck, Joe, you’d have no luck at all,” I told him.
I agreed to ride with him again, even though he was still wearing the same shirt as two days ago. Maybe he washed it on his layover day, I thought, hopefully.
And even though the gas station had no pepper spray, a nice lady gave us hers — “Y’all are gonna need it more than ah will,” she said.
We had an enjoyable ride together through the quiet, hilly countryside. Talking American politics made the miles just fly by. Joe’s idea was to overhaul the system altogether, by eliminating the House of Representatives, allowing the Senate to make policy decisions, and then gaining input directly from the electorate through social media.
We came to a nice downhill and I told Joe to go on ahead, as the road was very narrow. We swooped down the twisty, narrow road, until we reached a blind corner with an almost 90-degree turn. We each slammed on our brakes. The road was still wet, and I saw Joe’s back wheel shimmy and skitter. “Oh, s%i#!” I thought. “We’re going down.” And Joe did — hard. I just managed to get by him and make it to the bottom of the hill — right at a roadside cross marking a death at that spot in 2015. I ran back up the hill to where Joe was writhing in pain, swearing up a blue streak. He was in rough shape, but conscious, and it didn’t look as though anything was broken, although his collarbone was causing him a lot of discomfort. I flagged down the next motorist, to find out where the nearest hospital was. I thought Joe should get checked out. “In Leitchfield, about 20 miles from here. I can drive you,” said Art, who was a gentle, nice man, although I believe Joe thought he looked a little too much like one of the characters in Deliverance. “Yep,” said Art. “They call this Suicide Hill.”
“I think I’ll be OK,” said Joe weakly. “I’ll just sit here for a few minutes and collect myself.” Not five minutes later, a couple of gals from California, riding support for three other riders, stopped. Now, Joe decided he would like a ride to the hospital and the gals worked hard to make space in their car for Joe and on the bike rack for his Litespeed. They didn’t have a clue where Leitchfield was, but at least I knew Joe was safe and in good hands. I hope he’s OK. It would be a shame for him to come this far and not finish the ride.
Myrna and I met up for lunch in Sonora, another tiny town in the heart of Amish country.
I must make mention of the prominence of religion I have seen evident here in rural America and how it must surely shape the political values and perceptions of the people who live here. Some of these small towns have fewer than 200 people, and yet they have three or even more big churches, e.g. The First Baptist Church of . . . ; The New First Baptist Church; and The Christian Community Church of . . . In just 20 miles, another set of churches. I don’t know how they are all supported.
Along this route, we have passed through extensive Mennonite communities in Missouri, through Amish communities in Illinois and Kentucky. I even read about the Shakers, who came to Kentucky fleeing persecution in England. By 1820, they had more than 500 members. They were superb farmers, believing that working the land provided a life of purity and simplicity. The trouble was, they also took a vow of celibacy. With fewer people joining their ranks and the failure of their attempts to adopt orphans, the group pretty much died out by the early 20th Century.
And then it all went downhill . . .
Right after lunch, it started pouring again. I didn’t mind. It was a hot day and this was a great way to cool off. Again, the wet brakes on the wet and twisty roads caused me to take a turn a little too wide. If I overcorrected, I’d end up in the oncoming lane. As it was, I opted for the ditch, careening into a wire fence (not barbed wire, thank goodness!). Apart from a few bruises, I wasn’t hurt. I just got back on the bike, back on the road, and kept on riding. But this day was not going to end happily just yet!
I mentioned that the Bike Route 76 Signs dropped off in Illinois. Well, they picked up again in Kentucky. But if you missed one, because they are not always placed at every intersection, you have to navigate your own way back. That happened to me, and I thought I’d meet up with my support crew at the next town . . . or the next one . . . or the next one. No luck. Myrna was panicking because she hadn’t seen me all afternoon. She stopped in to a bar to ask how to get to Loretto, where I was. She explained she couldn’t take the most direct route the guys at the bar were recommending, because the bike route didn’t go that way. Eventually, Jeremy a guy in a black Camaro who had been at the bar after work stops me and asks if I’m looking for a lady in a white van. “Ah thought so, ’cause she’s circlin’aroun’ Loretto and she ain’t anywhere’s near here! She’s lookin’ at a different map from yours. Hop in, he said. I think I can track her down.”
It turns out Myrna’s is an older version of the TransAm route. No wonder she couldn’t find me — we were both going the right way — in different directions! Anyway, we were both glad to see the end of that day. We went to McDonald’s for a celebratory dinner, and checked in to the Springfield City Park for the night.
Through the Land of Lincoln
OK, so for not having much to say, this blog is going on way too long! But before I close off, I have to mention the interesting ride yesterday through the area of Abraham Lincoln’s family’s original homestead, and a full day of roller coaster hills through eastern Kentucky. I have escaped injury from my dog encounters (although one did manage to nip my back tire); my bike is still in great shape; and my spirits are high.
Today we are in Berea, KY, a small artsy college town. There’s a pool here and they’re running an AquaZumba class this afternoon that I hope to participate in.
Tomorrow might be my last day in Kentucky. Then it’s on to Virginia, the last state on the trail.
I have fallen in love with Missouri — the big, green trees; the crystal-clear rivers; and the many, many rolling hills. Maybe it’s because Missouri has everything that Kansas does not. It’s been a wonderful week of riding, and of ending each day with a swim in a cool river or spring. Does life get any better?
I thought for a moment, though, that we’d never get out of Kansas! We were parked nicely in the city RV park, when the van decided it did not want to go any further. Dead! I had to call AAA for a boost, and then an emergency alternatorectomy and transplant. Our man Alex at Kansasland dropped everything to help get us running again — even put in a bigger “amp-thingy” so we could run more stuff off the battery. Good as new and blowing cold air through the air conditioner once again, the support crew was happy as was the US economy for the large injection of cash from my account.
The numbers of cyclists heading west is getting less now, but still there’s a friendly wave, a thumbs-up and a “way to go” from each one I meet on the road.
Just a few miles into Missouri, I met Michael, a young architect from Portland on his thirdtrip across the country. Every time he comes to a crossroads in his life or career, he does the ride to reflect, think, and plan the next phase of his life’s journey. On Michael’s recommendation, I stop in at Cooky’s in Golden City (pop. 780) and order a piece of pie. I crammed that piece of pie into my little handlebar bag and thoroughly enjoyed sharing it with Myrna at our next rest stop. Mmmm. Great pie! There’s Michael on the left and Cooky’s on the right.
I thought things were going really well at that point and Myrna and I agreed to meet in Ash Grove, the next town about 10 miles up the road, to see if we wanted to stay at the city park or keep moving.
Well, there was no sign of Myrna when I got there and the city park was gorgeous, so I stayed and waited. And waited. And waited. So, a guy drives up on his motorbike and says he officially welcomes every cyclist into town. He asked if I needed anything. I told him, not at the moment, but that my support van might be lost. Dave fetched his wife, Wendy and drove all the way up (and I mean UP!) to Walnut Grove to flag Myrna down and led her back to Ash Grove! And that’s not the end of the hospitality! Not only was the camping (with showers) free, but Dave hooked us up to electricity AND cyclists got to swim free in the pool! I thought I might just move to Ash Grove.
Dave and Wendy, the unofficial welcoming committee of Ash Grove, MO.
Hills, thrills and excitement
Every day the drill is the same. Uphill, uphill, more uphill, round the corner, a little downhill. Then up and up and up again. Whew! The countryside is beautiful, though and I don’t mind the workout nearly as much as the Kansas wind!
In Hartville, we stay at the city park next to the Gasconnade River and are treated to a first-class lightning and thunderstorm. This town was the scene of a major Civil War Battle. Missouri has an interesting Civil War history. Half the population was in favor of slavery, and sympathies for Union and Confederates were about split. What made it different was the number of “guerrilla” fighters, looting, shooting and destroying property without official sanction from the Confederates, but welcomed anyway. In Hartville, the ragtag army took over the courthouse from where they served as snipers, shooting any Union soldier they saw. In the end, the Union army retreated. Pilot Knob was another town where a major Civil War battle was fought. I enjoyed learning the history of these battles and the people who fought in them.
Hartville today is a sad, forlorn little place. Most of the businesses are shuttered, many houses left vacant. In fact this is what we have seen in many of the small towns along the TransAm Trail — and likely why many people in America view Donald Trump as the man who can “make America great again.”
At the top of one of many hills, I met John, an engineer from Upstate New York, who had lived in Ottawa for a few years. In fact, almost everywhere we went in Missouri, there was a Canadian connection. One guy said he loves to go fishing in the lakes near Thunder Bay. Another guy told us he goes up to Manning, Alberta every other year to hunt birds. “I love Canada,” he said. Even Donna, whom you’ll see further down this post, said her daughter married a Canadian and lived in Paris, Ontario until he decided he liked her best friend better than her!
The Wonderful Rivers of Missouri
Our route took us through the Ozarks National Waterways — places like Jack’s Fork and Alley Springs were gorgeous! Blue Springs was a couple of miles off-route.
The springs are 310-feet deep, and the dissolved minerals make the water a very cool, cloudy shade of blue. I took a picture of my reflection in the blue water of the spring.
Back on the road and back up and down the hills of the Ozarks. I wasn’t making great mileage, but I sure felt I deserved a cold beer at the end of each day.
Last night we stayed at Johnson’s Shut-Ins State Park. No, it’s not a rest home for old people in wheelchairs. The Ozark term, “shut-ins” refers to steep limestone rock walls, through which runs a narrow gorge. It’s quite unique to this area. The Black River has lots of scoured swimming holes, and the water is clear enough to drink. As I sat there, cooling my body, I could watch the tiny fish near the top, the medium ones a foot down, and the big ones hovering around my feet. Cool!
Cycling Luxury in Farmington, MO
Today we rolled into Farmington, our last stop in Missouri. Al’s Place is a cycling hostel with all the comforts of home — plus air conditioning! It’s in the old city jail, has been completely refurbished and is now run by volunteers. For $20 a night, you get a bed (with linens), a fully stocked kitchen; a living room with TV and a great selection of videos; showers; and a computer.We had the house all to ourselves today, and it was great to relax here for a day. Myrna and Basil may not want to go tomorrow morning!
This is our last stop in Missouri. Tomorrow we cross the state border into Illinois and the last third of our journey. I’m looking forward to an exciting July 4th celebration somewhere in Illinois or Kentucky — even bought a stars and stripes T-shirt so I wouldn’t stand out in the crowd. I’ll let you know how it goes.
Here we are in Pittsburg (no ‘h’), Kansas, just a stone’s throw from the Missouri border. They say that our minds trick us into remembering our most recent experiences as being representative of the entire experience — good or bad. Based on that assumption, I might have fond memories of Kansas as green, hilly and just nicely warm and breezy. But as I recall my week in Kansas, the facts must show that it is almost completely flat; almost always windy; and most certainly blazing hot!
“What do you like about living in Kansas?” I’d ask people who make this place their home. “Well, it’s cheap,” said one man from Hutchinson. It’s true. The gas here, at just over $2 a litre is the cheapest I’ve seen. And for the most part, camping is free — more about that in a bit.
“Well,” thought a couple of gals at the checkout in Tribune, “it’s flat. You can see storms coming from a long ways away.”
“So you can take cover?” I asked. “No! So we can get out and shoot video!”
The last tornado of this year touched down in Kansas on May 24th, and with the hot weather, I suspected we might see another one. I tried to anticipate what we might do should a twister hit.
In one campsite, the instructions were clearly posted. “Take shelter in the vault toilets. They are not tornado-proof, but they are able to withstand winds of 120 mph. Hmmmm. What a way to go — blown over in an outhouse!
My first introduction to Kansas could have been a disaster (I know, this is what you’ve all been waiting for). A guy in a pickup truck coming towards me flashes his lights and waves me over. “See that big bull snake in the road just ahead?” he asked. I did. “Will he bite?” I asked. “Hell, yeah!” says the driver, his passenger nodding in vigorous agreement. “If I were you, I’d ride on this side of the road to get by him.”
So I did . . . very slowly. As it happened, a car passed me and ran right over the snake. SQUIRRKK. Dead. Another potential disaster averted. I’ll spare you the photo I took of the fatality on the road. And, it turns out, the guys were wrong. Bull snakes are constrictors, not biters. This guy might have tried to wrap himself around my leg (which would have been scary, but not fatal).
Unfortunately, cyclists see a lot of road-killed animals — deer, birds, raccoons and turtles. One morning, riding Highway 96, I saw no fewer than three ornamental box turtles trying to cross the highway.It was early enough that there wasn’t much traffic, so I picked them up and put them back into the grass. I believe they are a protected species in Kansas, but many people would take them home as pets.I hope these three grow to live lo-o-o-ng lives, as intended.
Other creatures were not nearly so endearing. There are millions of mosquitoes, flies, midges and ticks in Kansas, the worst of which for me was a “bomber” biting fly. These guys would follow me while I’m riding and bite me on the backs of my legs. I could see their shadows, flying in formation behind me as I rode, and would vigorously swing my arm back and forth behind me and pedal as fast as I could to avoid getting bitten.
Near-Mutiny of the Support Crew!
I was making good progress through the state. I had logged four 100+ mile days. Because of the aforementioned bugs — and the oppressive heat , my support crew had been staying in the van, doing whatever they could to keep cool and bite-free. When the air-conditioning overheated (if that is possible), and Myrna’s stomach started acting up, she pulled over and told me to “get my *#*!ing bike in the van,” my emotional intelligence sensed a meltdown. (Duh!) “But there’s just five miles to go to our next stop!” She had already been there and found it severely wanting, in terms of shade and amenities. “Fine,” she said, and peeled off down the road.
As I mentioned, camping in Kansas is almost always free. There are so many tiny towns that are happy to have you stay in their “city” parks or at their travellers’ rest stops. For those who enjoy even a modicum of privacy or amenities, heck, even cleanliness, these places would not be for you! But I think they’re a great part of the adventure. In Eads, the Travellers Rest Stop was full of interesting historical information. In Leoti, we became part of a birthday party for one-year-old Jose. In Nickerson, we parked in the shade by the ball diamond. Very soon, we had front-row seats to a girls’ softball game, and I took advantage of the kids’ splash park to have an outdoor shower! In Cassoday, the “prairie chicken capital of the world,” we had the whole park to ourselves, complete with gazebo and swings.
What I wouldn’t give for a lake to swim in!
It seems that all the streams and lakes through this part of Kansas are dried up or well on their way to that place. Therefore, I looked forward to a night camping in the Cross Winds State Park near Toronto Lake! (That’s right, Toronto, Kansas!) On the map the lake looked to b e a good size, and I figured if there was a state park there, there would surely be swimming. Well, the water was the about color of mushroom soup, and it was tepid, but I was determined to go in. I kept my eyes and my mouth closed and my sandals on, and swam to the boat dock, then quickly showered to wash off whatever I may have picked up in there. All part of the adventure!
People I met in Kansas
It’s a long, lonely road through Kansas and as Willy would say, a real mental test rather than physical. Everyone I have met on my journey through this state, though, has been friendly, helpful and optimistic. Here is a collection of the cyclists I met: Don the fire fighter from Santa Rosa, California, starting retirement with a ‘new job;’ Ken and Terry, the business partners from Idaho Falls, riding the TransAmerica race, but not really racing –more like bonding; Charlie from Washington, DC, riding solo on his recumbent to escape the craziness that is DC in an election year; and Carl, the medical student from Arizona who is doing the TransAm in his “last free summer.”
Headed to Missouri!
Last night we stayed in the city RV Park in Pittsburg. The phone kept putting out a siren warning of a “severe flood alert” for the area. It was quite a storm, but no tornado. I will be happy to have a rest day here — maybe even visit a Starbucks! Then I will be happy to leave Kansas and cross the border to Missouri. I’m looking forward to the hills of the Ozarks and the crystal clear waters that await us there.
Since starting in Florence, Oregon a month ago, I have now covered almost 3,000 km through five states –Oregon, Idaho, Montana, Wyoming and Colorado. Today, the ride into Pueblo was a fairly short one, but by 11 a.m. the temperature was well into the 90s, there was no shade anywhere, and the grasshoppers were jumping up and bouncing off my shoes. Worse yet, one of the the van’s rear tires looked like it was getting heat blisters on its sidewalls. So our first impression of Pueblo was from the inside of a tire shop, where Priscilla got a new pair of shoes and the bank account took a major hit. But I’m getting ahead of myself. . . .
When I left off last week, we were taking a rest day in Rawlins, Wyoming, a city of 10,000 people at the crossroads of no fewer than seven highways AND a railway that goes right through town. Our campground was right next to one of the major highways. After a delicious breakfast of huckleberry pancakes and coffee at our picnic table, I set out to explore the town on my bike. Turns out he biggest attraction in Rawlins is the Wyoming Frontier Prison. And what a fascinating place it was! From the outside, it is a beautiful stone building, very well preserved. Since closing its doors in 1981, the inside has been preserved exactly as it was when it was home to 700 of the most notorious criminals from across the state of Wyoming.
I found myself spellbound by the photos and stories of the prisoners and seeing the conditions they lived (or died under). The prison was home to 14 women, one of them an 18-year-old Mormon women who poisoned her father by feeding him a pie she had baked with strychnine in it.
Another woman’s photograph showed a grossly deformed lower lip. She was in prison because she had murdered the man who gave her syphillis. Over the 80 years the prison was operational, 475 inmates died there — many of them executed by hanging or gas chamber. I even took a seat in the gas chamber!
I don’t mean to be morbid, but the last man executed here was in 1965 — a 22-year-old man by the name of Andrew Pixley who murdered two young girls in Jackson, Wyoming. His crime is considered the worst in the state. They say the prison is haunted by Pixley’s ghost and the ghosts of the two victims, the faces of whom he carved with his fingernails are still very visible on the walls of his death row cell. Creepy!
That evening, we went out to Rose’s Lariat, which is reported to have the best Mexican food on the TransAmerica trail. What can I say? It was best enchiladas I’ve had since San Antonio, Texas.It’s a tiny little, family-run diner, not licensed, and while we ate, we met Jennifer from Las Cruces, New Mexico, who had just taken a job at the resort in Saratoga Springs. She made the 50-mile drive to Rawlins to get a good Mexican dinner. Her verdict? “Nope. You gotta go to Las Cruces!”
Hobo Hot Springs in Saratoga
Back on the bike on Saturday, through the town of Sinclair, which was originally called Parco for the company that designed and built it as the “ideal company town.” At the centre was the elegant Parco Inn, a Spanish Colonial style building that took up a whole city block and featured a pond where diners could order the freshest trout in Wyoming. Parco fell on hard times during the Great Depression, its refinery sold to Sinclair Oil, and the town renamed Sinclair. The elegant Parco Inn still stands.
For the first time, my route took me onto the Interstate (I-80), but it was still early in the day, so not as much truck traffic as there could have been. The shoulder was wide and I felt quite safe. I exited the interstate near the town of Saratoga Springs, and set to find the natural hot springs that have been there, next to the North Platte River for more than 100 years; free and open to the public, 24 hours a day, 365 days of the year. There are three pools — a hot one, a hotter one, and the “lobster pot,” where temperatures are in the 115- to 120-degree range.
After a few hours on the bike, I thought I could sure use the “natural healing powers” of the water. It was magical! (Dad, another place you would just love!) I hit the road again, refreshed and relaxed.
Up the road a ways, I caught up with Tony Morgan, a 69-year old from Wales, who says he comes to the U.S. every year to ride 1,000 miles over some part of the country and do some bird watching along the way. He asked me what I thought of the American election coming
up, and said he wanted to offer some advice to Hilary Clinton — to take Bernie Sanders on as her VP running mate.
“Don’t ask me,” I said. “I’m just happy I live in Canada.”
He was going slowly, and he didn’t want to ride and talk, so I told him I needed to get moving to make it to the next campsite at Six-Mile Gap, six miles from the Colorado border.
For the next hour I battled a strong headwind, until making the turn south at Riverside, where it became a tailwind, and I fairly flew all the way to camp. It was the weekend (I am starting to lose track of days and dates), so there was a crowd of young people out camping at the Forestry site alongside us. They asked if we would mind if they “shot some clays.” I’m glad they asked because this is America after all and sounds of shots being fired could be pretty scary! The campground was quite a way off the highway and down into the valley of the Platte River. It was peaceful, rugged and beautiful, but you wouldn’t know it if you stayed on the main highway.
Sunday morning I was on the road by 7:05, headed for the Colorado border. Bright blue skies greeted me, the sun was shining and traffic was light. I passed through the sleepy communities of Cowdrey and Walden, “moose watching capital of Colorado” but I have yet to see a moose. Pronghorn antelope are plentiful. Sometimes I see one caught on the wrong side of the barbed-wire fence. They’ll run for miles looking for an opening in the fence so they can rejoin their herd. I have to watch them closely, though, in case they decide to cross the highway and run over me!
I had another pass to climb today — Willow Creek — and at the top I met a guy trying desperately to get his bike, himself and the sign into a photo. So I told him to go pose with his bike and I’d take his picture.
Benjamin is a fine arts student from Leipzig, Germany
who is currently between degrees. He is spending his summer riding from New York to Astoria, Oregon; then Vancouver to San Francisco. When I caught up with him he was eight weeks into his trip, and had 8 weeks worth of beard on his face.
The other side of the pass was a terrific downhill ride, with a meandering river to round out the experience. Beautiful!
We camped at another US Forestry Service site in Denver Creek. I had just enough time to wash my clothes and myself in the river before a monstrous thunderstorm crashed immediately overhead. It didn’t last long, though, and managed to cool everything down. Camped next to us was a young couple from Denver. Jon is an engineer and his wife Shelby is a school nurse. They were taking eight days to ride the Rocky Mountain Trail and were heading to Walden (remember, the moose-watching capital?).
Overnight, the rain on my bike had turned to ice and it was very cold on my fingers and legs as I started out, so I pedalled fast for five miles or so to warn up. It was a fantastic ride into the big ski resort communities of Silverthorne, Frisco and Breckenridge. Now that it’s summer, the mountain bikers are everywhere, and rafting on the Blue River is serious business. The mountain peaks form a spectacular backdrop to the multi-million-dollar log “cabins” that dot the hills.There is a terrific bike trail joining the three communities that takes cyclists right away from the traffic. The “Ride the Rockies” bike race was starting on Wednesday, so there were a lot of people out training on the trails.
Myrna thinks I’m not eating enough, so she suggested we get some fettuccine alfredo to go from one of the pasta restaurants in Breckenridge. Together with our barbecued lamb chops by candlelight in our little van made for a terrific dinner while yet another thunderstorm crashed above us. We stayed at the USFS campground in Frisco, right on the Dillon reservoir. It was our third night without access to electricity and all our electronics were in desperate need of charging. The next morning Willy Gruber, my colleague from our Denver office was going to meet me in Breck and help me get over the Hoosier Pass, the highest pass on the TransAmerica Trail. Trying to confirm last-minute plans was frustrating. My texts were not going through and the phone was running out of juice. When all else fails, send e-mail!
Here comes the Hoosier!
The night was another cold one but the morning of the Hoosier climb was sunny and clear. I was to ride the 15 miles from Frisco; Willy the 23 miles over the pass from Fairplay, and we were to meet in Breckenridge so Willy could do the pass again! My bike was covered in ice, and — what’s this? Some critter, not sure what, had, unzipped my handlebar bag, pulled out and eaten the three energy bars I had in there. All that remained were the wrappers and big muddy paw prints on my white handlebars!
Despite all our plans, Willy and I still somehow managed to miss each other at the appointed time, but we did eventually connect and he pulled me up the last four miles to the top of the pass at 11,539 feet and down the 10 or so miles to Fairplay. While I’m gasping for air and trying to hang on, Willy (the Rocket) is naming all the peaks to the left and right of us and pointing out the running and hiking trails accessed from there. It was so great to see a familiar face and to have some company on yet another climb up and over the Divide.When we got to Fairplay, Willy had prepared a “care package” — with enough cookies, gummy bears and energy bars to get me all the way to Missouri! I am very grateful for his support and for taking the time to do this ride with me. I had a blast!
All Downhill from Here!
While Willy headed back to the office, I continued my ride, practically downhill all the way to Royal Gorge — a drop of about 6,000 feet of elevation. At 153 km, it was my highest-mileage ride of the trip, but the downhill and the tailwind made it that much easier.
On a side note, Willy had recommended we try the world-famous tamales in the town of Hartsell, just down the road from the Hoosier Pass. Willy, if you’re reading this, I’m sorry to report that Hartsell’s tamale-making lady has sadly retired. No more tamales in Hartsell.
I’m starting to see more TransAm riders as the weeks go by, but if they’re going the opposite way, we usually just wave and “thumbs-up” each other. Here was a guy standing on the shoulder, taking a picture of . . . me! I crossed the road to say hello and he asked me if I was a TransAm racer.It must have been the Golder jersey that gave him that impression. John is from Sweden, riding the same route as me, except from east to west. After a day of headwinds and uphill, he was feeling a little demotivated. “The best is yet to come,” I told him. “Hang in there!”
We pulled in to a KOA campground in Royal Gorge with electricity, water, hot showers and a pool. Wahoo!
This morning, I pedalled the three miles from our campsite up to the Royal Gorge Bridge. At 965 feet above the Arkansas River, it is the highest suspension bridge in North America. I got there before the park opened, and learned that to walk across the bridge cost $18, and that on any given day, between 500 and 1000 visitors will do that. I looked at the bridge, took a picture, got on my bike and saved myself $18. Gerrick and Karin, you would no doubt have bungee jumped off the bridge. I didn’t even check how much that cost.
Farewell, Rockies. Kansas, Here We Come!
Colorado is a beautiful, rugged state, perfect for adventurers. I really liked it here, and would love to come back and explore more. I am now three full days ahead of plan, and would like to check out the Riverwalk and the art galleries in Pueblo before heading east into Kansas, where I understand the wind is always blowing — and usually in your face!
A special shout-out to my dad for Father’s Day; to my brothers Pete and Tom and my brother-in law, John; to Gerrick and to Curtis. You are all great Dads.
Four weeks. Four states. 2,369k biked. Two days ahead of plan.
Back on the road Sunday, through the southern part of Yellowstone, passing by Old Faithful and Grand Prismatic Lake. I started early to avoid the crowds. Yeah, right. In two hours, more than 500 cars passed me, going in my direction. They’d stop and take photos of anything that moved. One tourist even took a picture of me riding by! I have a radical idea that I know will never catch on. How about banning motor vehicles from Yellowstone, except for old people and people with disabilities? If people cycled through the park, they’d see so much more, and be so much healthier.
Yellowstone runs right into Grand Teton National Park. Now this is a gem! I can only conclude that Yellowstone had more money to spend on PR, because the Tetons are absolutely stunning!
If only I had known the night before, that clear, warm, beautiful Jackson Lake was only a five-minute walk through the woods. Stunning! And did I mention it was warm? This is one place I definitely have to come back to!
A big climb awaited me this day, and I had to get going. What could possibly be better than starting the day with a 3,000-foot climb to the top of Togwotee Pass? At 9,668 ft, it is the second-highest pass on the TransAmerica Trail. It gets an average of 300 inches of snow every year, and looks like a snowmobiler’s paradise. The views were so magnificent, I had to stop around every corner and take another look. At the Togwotee Lodge, about 5 miles from the summit, I was flagged down by a couple of cyclists heading the other direction. “Have you seen the Norwegians?” they asked. Max and Amy are a brother and sister duo, riding from Colorado to Seattle for their cousin’s wedding. “I bet that will make a great story at the wedding,” I told them. We each shared highlights of what lies ahead in the direction from which we had come, and then carried on our way. “Oh, and there will be a couple of guys coming behind us, looking to catch up to a Norwegian pair, who sign in to every guest book but continue to elude their persuers, keeping just that bit ahead.”
Myrna met me at the top of the pass, where we shared a picnic lunch. By the time we finished, the sky behind had darkened, and it looked like a storm was approaching. Back on the bike, I pedalled faster to keep ahead of the approaching storm.
We rolled into Dubois (pronouned “DeBoyce” by Wyomingites — yes, I looked that up — as in “De Boyce aren’t here. De’re out fishin’ on the Wind River.”) We stayed at the KOA in Debois and, in a moment of weakness, I purchased a KOA annual membership, thinking we’ve got a lot of nights left to find camp spots. It was ice cream night, and we gleefully indulged in “New York vanilla” with butterscotch topping. (Wendy, I don’t know if there is such a thing as New York vanilla, or if it was just marketing by the ice cream guy. While we enjoyed our treat, dry and cozy inside the van, there was a crackerjack thunderstorm overhead.
Falling in love with Lander
From Debois to Lander was a fast ride up through the Wind River Canyon, with its towering red rocks. The snow-topped peaks of the Wind River range were on my right and what looked like the Alberta Badlands on the left. Deer are plentiful here, and they watch me go by with curiosity, not fear. Unlike the Hawaiian deer, who will just run a cyclist over!
Lo-o-o-ong stretches of lonely highway through the Wind River Indian reservation, with wide open land on either side — and the temperature keeps climbing. In Fort Washakie, we visit the grave of Sacajawea, the famous Shoshone woman who guided Lewis and Clark through the Indian lands. More battles are recorded here, between the Shoshone and the Crow, the Arapaho and the Sioux. Chief Washakie, who is also buried here, is revered as a great warrior, a great leader of his people, and a friend to the white man.
A short 15-minute ride from the Reservation to Lander, a city of 7,500 where the camping is FREE at City Park. And the park is gorgeous — right on the Popo-Agio River, with lots of trees and green space. What a great service they offer. There was another thunderstorm rolling in, so I thought I’d ride downtown and get a video to watch. Instead I stopped in at the bike shop, which Amy had recommended highly. It was 5:50 and the shop closed at 6. I didn’t really need anything, but thought it would be a good idea if they could check the bike over, now that I was a third of the way through the trip.
“Congratulations,” said Thomas, the young owner. “Please sign our guestbook (presumably next to the Norwegians), and we offer an ice cream sandwich to all TransAm riders. Well, I am not one to turn down an ice cream! Then he and his colleague, Ed, set to work on my bike. The two of them were like surgeons operating on a patient that had just been in a car crash. They took off the rear cassette and thoroughly cleaned it; installed a new chain; tightened the brakes; checked the tires and put in a new front tube;adjusted the shifter cables; and lubed every contact point. It was 7:30 by the time they were done, an hour and a half after closing, and Jake was gleaming like a brand new bike. While they worked, they talked about the ride they had coming up this weekend –FART – the Fremont Annual Road Tour (Lander is in Fremont County.) The mountain bikers have a similar event in the fall that they call BARF, but I can’t remember what that stands for! I wish I could have stayed. It sounds like a great biking community in Lander.The people are friendly, the town is well kept and with some gorgeous homes. A nice place to live, maybe.
On to Jeffery City (Population 58)
So, it’s about 150 miles (240k) between Lander and Rawlins and in the heat and the wind, that’s too far for me. There are precious few campgrounds along that stretch. Hardly even any trees, if you need to heed the call of nature. And the rattlesnakes are huge (I know that because I’m seen them squashed on the road), so I wouldn’t venture too far off the highway. Once again, the thunderclouds were lining up behind me.
The map said that camping was available in Jeffery City, at about the halfway mark, at the Lions Park in town. Well, the place looked like a ghost town. Everything was boarded up. There wasn’t even anyone in the bar, where I went to inquire about the Lions Park. To my delight, there was a sign in the window that read:
“Welcome, Cyclists. You can camp behind the Jeffery Community Church. Showers. Kitchen. Look for the white steeple. Go around the back. The door’s open.”
Sounded good to me. Myrna wasn’t sure. She said she saw a sign for an RV Campground. “OK, let’s try it, I said.” It was a guy with a gravel lot and a few electrical outlets. He wanted $25 to park there. No showers, no shade, but plenty of hungry mosquitoes and a pack of four barking dogs. We didn’t have a lot of time to think. If you stood still for a moment, the mosquitoes swarmed over every exposed piece of skin. “I’m going to the church,” I said, and headed over a sandy back road in the direction of the white steeple.
The door was indeed open and inside was a large, cool space. There was a big board where cyclists could write their names, where they were from and where they were headed. They were from The Netherlands, the UK, Austria, Australia, and all over the US. I added our names with a Canadian flag, then hit the showers, cooked dinner in their fully stocked kitchen, and felt like a new woman. The view out the back of the van that night was priceless — gnarly rock outcrops from the wide Wyoming grasslands, set against a brilliant spring sunset. Ahhhhh. This is the life!
I got up early this morning to make the final 104k push into Rawlins before the heat of the day and the storms of the late afternoons. The first 30k were easy. And then the crosswinds hit. The next 30k was tough slogging, getting better just as a never-ending hill came in to view. Tough day. I’m tired.
I’m looking forward to a rest day tomorrow, a visit to the prison museum in town and then some good Mexican food at Rose’s Lariat — apparently the best Mexican food anywhere along the TransAmerica Trail. My overall impression of Wyoming is that it has changed little over the past century, and that for almost everyone, apart from the native Indians, it was a “passing-through” place — the settlers on the Oregon Trail; the gold miners headed to the gold fields of Montana and California; the railway builders; the Mormon settlers; the fur traders, the cavalry and the Pony Express.And, of course, the TransAmerica cyclists of today! It’s beautiful, wild, rugged country to enjoy as you pass through it.
On to Colorado
Saturday we set off on Week 5, into Colorado and the might Hoosier Pass. Willy, I hope we can meet up for a ride when we come close to Denver — I’m thinking early to mid next week?
Just before I close, I’d like to give a shout-out to my colleague, Greg Doram, who celebrates 5 years with Golder this week. Greg, I am proud to work with you. You are one classy guy! I’m sorry to be missing the party.
Week Three Completed — Ahead of Schedule and all’s well
In the third week of my big bike adventure, I covered another 464k, from Missoula to West Yellowstone. As I write this at my campsite picnic table, the sun is shining, the sky is a brilliant blue and the temperature is going up to 80 degrees. Life doesn’t get much better!
In terms of size, Montana is the fourth-largest state in the US, but in terms of population, I think it is the smallest. I am certain there are more cattle than people! And definitely more pick-up drivers than cyclists. In the last four days of riding, I’ve only seen six other riders, and they were heading east to west, looking pretty haggard. I wonder if that’s what I’ll look like in another six weeks! Once again, I had many hours of solitude in the saddle. I felt like I was riding along the bottom of a scooped-out bowl of whipped cream dessert. In every direction, the snow-capped mountains towered over me, protecting the broad valleys, where the cattle and the mule deer grazed. Five different ranges accompanied me on my way south — the Bitterroots (Montanans pronounce them “Bidderuts”), the Beaverhead, the Madison, Ruby and Gallatin ranges. I don’t know if I’m getting stronger or if the passes between them are less steep, but I easily climbed the Chief Joseph Pass, the Big Hole and the Bridger.
Myrna and I are getting into a great rhythm. I am setting out earlier and earlier each day, usually starting with an uphill climb. Myrna catches up to me around 11 a.m. and we find a place to stop for lunch. Darby, Wisdom, Dillon and Twin Bridges are all great little western towns, and though they are on the TransAm route, I think most people still have a hard time believing someone would actually ride their bike across the country. “Where you headed?” one old guy at the store in Twin Bridges asks me. “Virginia,” I say. “Whoa! I wasn’t expecting you to say that. I thought maybe Sheridan (a small town just 20k up the road).” Now when someone asks me, I tell them my destination for the end of that day.
The Wild West is Alive and Well in Montana
Montana remains a throwback to the old, wild west. People dress like real cowboys (probably because they are!), including chaps and spurs. The towns all look like the sets of the western movies we grew up watching — The Rifleman, Maverick, Bonanza, and my favorite, Gunsmoke, starring James Arness as Matt Dillon, the handsome marshall, along with Doc, Kitty and Festus.
The gold rush in the 1860s brought thousands of people to the valleys of western Montana, along with the rough-and-tumble lawlessness and disorder that such finds attract. Riding through the Ruby Valley (so named because of the stones they found — they were actually garnet. The gold found in the value, in today’s dollars, was worth $40 billion. Huge dredging operations basically turned every stream inside out, leaving great piles of rocks where little will grow. Sad, really, that reclamation was not a mandatory part of the mining operation. A total of 12 bustling towns sprang up in the area and two remain — preserved and restored much the way they were — Nevada City and Virginia City. People still live Virginia City, in fact, and it is a great place to poke around in. Don, you will remember the ice cream they make there, touted as “the best in Montana.” We stayed at a campground just outside Virginia City, where the manager asked us if we were there for “Brothel Days” coming up on the weekend. “People dress up, and there are bed races,” she said. “I’ve got a lot of people coming in with Irish-sounding names.” Don’t ask me — she’s the one who mentioned it!
This cafe in Ennis is typical of a main street business in western Montana.
The route I cycled is nicknamed “Vigilante Road,” after the citizens who took it into their own hands to bring order to the territory and swift justice to the thieves, murderers and scoundrels who pretty much terrorized the valley. An interesting fact I learned (I learn a lot from roadside signs!) was that the profits from this gold find funded Harvard University in the early 20th Century.
New Friends and Old
As I mentioned, I have not come across many fellow cyclists in Montana. I did meet up with Mai and Kent from San Francisco. She’s an internet entrepreneur who can run her business from anywhere — even from the seat of a bike, apparently, and her husband is between jobs. So they’re taking a slow and leisurely approach to the journey. I rode with them for quite a while, talking US politics (Montana is a very conservative state, so we had to speak softly. They love their guns here.)
When I left them with the universal good-bye greeting, “Happy Trails,” I was passed by a couple of young women riding very fast. I caught up to them at the next corner. Rachel and Zoe are from Bozeman and were heading there from Missoula.
“You guys are fast!” I said. “Yeah, but we make a lot of stops,” they laughed.A dollop of sunscreen and they sped off again. “Happy Trails!”
The Joy of Camping
We have been lucky in that we have (almost) always gotten a camp spot at the end of the day. However, the fees charged seem to bear no relation to the services offered at the campground. We have paid $10 a site for electricity and water in a beautiful, forested campground; and as much as $50 a night for a gravel spot with a picnic table at the back of someone’s homestead. I love the US Forest Service sites the best — they are basic but gorgeous — and usually reasonably priced. State park rates vary widely from one spot to another. A remote spot with no services can cost $28 a night, while a privately-operated campground, with a huge site, big trees, a pond or stream PLUS electricity and hot showers –$16.50 a night. Go figure. That is what we found at Sula, a gorgeous little spot after a long, hot day of riding. And who should roll up right behind us? Dave and Twyla from Reno, whom we first met in Dayville, Oregon! We pulled out our folding chairs and umbrella, and shared a beer and biking war stories, while the steak and potatoes cooked on our little barbecue grill. Is this heaven or what?? Our arrival at the campground probably increased the population of Sula by about 25%. I regret that I didn’t get Dave and Twyla’s picture, because I don’t think we’ll meet up with them again. I put the hammer down and I’m probably two days ahead of them now.
Thursday night we camped at the Beaver Creek USFS campsite. Gorgeus! Our spot was high on a hill overlooking the Gallatin Mountains. We were only 39k from West Yellowstone, but it had been a day of fierce headwinds that really took a lot out of me. So strong were the winds that at times, even though I was going downhill, it seemed the wind was blowing me back up! We agreed to get a fresh start in the morning, and spend the day exploring Yellowstone Park.
The area around Hebgen Lake, a huge lake in the Madison Valley, was the scene of a horrific earthquake in 1959 that broke off a huge portion of Mount Hegben. The rocks dammed the river, cut off the highway and pummelled a campground. It was 11:30 at night, and most campers were asleep in their tents when the rockfall hit them. In all 28 people died. The rest scrambled to higher ground. Many were injured, others were soaking wet and all were very frightened. They huddled together at what is now called Refuge Point and waited for help to arrive. Parachuted storm jumpers arrived from Bozeman at noon the next day and began the rescue operation. I learned that Montana is one of the most seismologically active regions in North America — that there is an earthquake here almost every day (though most are so small, they are hardly noticed). I asked our campground host if we would be safe for the night. She laughed and said I should be more concerned about the resident bull moose, or the bears that like the smell of our burritos!
Yellowstone National Park
We arrived at West Yellowstone Friday morning, secured a spot for the night and set out to explore the park. First off, let me say that it is HUGE. It is also extremely busy. We are only at the beginning of June, and already the roads are crowded and every site is packed with people. Maybe my expectations of this place were too high, but I found the place to be quite underwhelming. I would tell anyone that our own Banff, Jasper and Waterton-Glacier National Parks outclass this park by any measure. I remember last year when our Golder group was cycling into Lake Louise, and there was a grizzly right on the outskirts of the townsite. Here, there was one tiny black bear and the road was jammed for miles with people trying to get a photo. The only thing they have here, of course, are the natural hot pools and geysers, and they are interesting, but to see them you follow a hundred tourists along a wooden boardwalk. Maybe I’m just an old curmudgeon, but in my opinion, the sites I see from the road are far more magnificent and interesting — and there are no crowds.
On to Wyoming!
After a rest day in West Yellowstone, we head in to Wyoming tomorrow. We’ll go through Grand Teton National Park, cross the Continental Divide and finish the week in Rawlins, Wyoming — 350 miles away.
A big Happy Birthday to my sweet, lovable, handsome grandson, TJ, who turns 11 today. TJ, you are the light of my life. I love you to bits. Have a great day today, and maybe one day you’ll want to “hit the road” with your Grammy.
Covered another 660k this week, through a cross-section of probably the prettiest route in Idaho. Though a bit cool still, the weather was pretty good; the traffic was light and the shoulders wide. The one word that best describes my week is rivers. Through the Snake River gorge (the deepest in North America), along the Salmon River, the Lochsa, and the Clearwater, the clear, clean, powerful rivers of Idaho were my constant companions. It was a solitary ride for the most part, apart from the many singing birds (although one angry black bird kept diving at my helmet!). I did a lot of singing myself, with apologies to Bob Dylan and Arlo Guthrie, who sing Blowing in the Wind and City of New Orleans a whole lot better than I do!
At Oxbow we stayed at a gorgeous campsite run by Idaho Power, with big sites, large trees, manicured lawns, and great showers for only $14. That was a good deal. The power company manages the two dams along the huge Oxbow-Brownlee Reservoir, which looks to be very popular for fishermen. Although I don’t know from experience, I think that fishing must be very hard work, because the guys were loading up with dozens of beers — to replenish their electrolytes, no doubt! At Oxbow, I met Jerry, a cyclist from Glasgow, Scotland, who was also doing the TransAm. More about Jerry later.
The ride through Hell’s Canyon was spectacular. I had trouble keeping my eyes on the road, there was so much to see. Just one big climb of about seven miles, and we made a short day of it at 100k, ending up in Council, Idaho, a town of about 86 people. Myrna had purchased steaks for dinner, and I eagerly went to unpack our brand new portable barbecue. OMG! It required assembly of about 1,436 pieces — with nine kinds of screws and nuts and washers. It even came with its own tools! Gerrick and Curtis, where are you when I need you? Well, it may have taken an hour or more, but I put that sucker together perfectly — even the electronic starter works. I was pretty proud of myself. And those steaks were among the best I have ever tasted!
Wee Jerry, the Scot, ended the day in Council as well. He was suffering big time. “Is there no public transport in this country?” he asked me.He didn’t think he was going to make it to the Atlantic by August 4th, to catch the flight home. “Ah canna believe it!” he said, “We’re still going north! This is a muckle big country!” He was looking to catch a Greyhound out of Idaho to give himself a big of a boost.
The next day took us through White Bird, the scene of a major battle between the Nez Perce Indians and the US Cavalry. 100 soldiers were killed in a sneak attack early in the morning. No Indians lost their lives, but it sparked war all across the territory. The landscape has changed little since those days and I could imagine the horrific scene in the valley below me.
Friday was a cool, cloudy day and that day I met up with fellow cyclists, Dick and Chris. Dick is from Boston. When he’s not out cycling, he works for an organization call kNOw THEM, which helps CEOs of major corporations understand and resolve global conflict issues.His friend Chris was accompanying him on the Oregon-Missoula portion of the ride. Chris works with power companies on the economics of moving to sustainable energy sources.
The road we were travelling (Hwy 12) is spectacularly beautiful. Don, Dave and Ursula, I would come back here any day and ride it again with you!
The highlight of this day, and this ride so far, was the dip in Jerry Johnson’s Hot Springs. This is a rugged, natural hot spring about a mile’s hike from the highway. I grabbed my bathing suit and towel and headed up the trail. When I got to the pool, I realized this was a “bathing suit not required” kind of place. OK, I thought. I’ll go with that, stripped down and joined four other bathers. OMG! It was heavenly! Hot, clear and completely natural with big boulders ringing the pool. Dad, you would have loved this place!
And that’s where I met up with Peter and Connie, a couple from Couer d’Alene on a two-week hot springs vacation. They knew every great camping spot and remote
hot spring in the area. I realize that although my trip is all about cycling, it’s only when I stop that I meet the nicest people.
Thanks, Peter and Connie, for the tip about the Lochsa Lodge — we ate what were possibly the best burgers in the US from the restaurant there, and stayed in the USFS campground for just $10!
Saturday morning I faced the dreaded Lolo Pass into Montana.This is where Lewis and Clark travelled through in 1805, on their way to claim the Pacific coast for the United States. Myeh! It wasn’t nearly as bad as I had feared. I was well into Montana before Myrna caught up to me. From there on into Missoula, our destination for the week.Yay! Today is a rest day.
Where to Next?
We leave Missoula tomorrow, bound for West Yellowstone, Montana. Until next week, then!
One week on the road and we’ve crossed the entire state of Oregon — 720 km from the windy Pacific coast at Florence; through the deep woods right alongside the McKenzie River; through the vibrant university town of Eugene; up and over four mountain passes — including the Santiam Pass, where the snow is still falling. I am overdosing on the beauty of the state!
But, as my colleague, Greg D. told me, “Nobody wants to hear about how great things are, or how beautiful. They want to know what calamities you have encountered — the worse the disaster, the more interesting the read.”
OK, from the beautiful to the bad of this trip. Despite my very good maps, I have gotten lost about three times, adding many miles to my ride in the saddle. Each and every time, someone has kindly set me on the right path. The lady at the garden centre, who told me I was “way off course. Turn around and go back about eight miles the way you came.” Or the military vet who said, “Not this way, Ma’am. Turn right ’round and go that way.” Or Jim, the US Corps of Engineers guy, who at the top of a long climb to beautiful Cougar Dam told me, “Nope, you’ve come up the wrong way. But at least you’ll have a fast ride back down!”
But if there was one word that could sum up my week in Oregon, I would say, “cold.” It has been cloudy, or overcast, or raining or snowing most days. At the top of Ochoko Pass, Myrna said we needed to call it a day — riding through the snow pellets at high altitude, I was getting hypothermic. We hunkered down in our little van, under all the blankets we had, then enjoyed a bowl of hot pea soup! I bundled up with a beanie, tights, two jackets and hot hands under my gloves and in my shoes forhe next morning’s ride down the back side of the pass. Brrrrrrr. It was still cold!
The People I’ve Met
I stopped in to the post office in the small town of Mitchell to buy stamps. Mary, the Postmaster, has held the job for 24 years, and her mother had the job before her. She asked about the fires in Fort McMurray and then told me about the devastating flood of ’56 in Mitchell. She showed me a newspaper photo of a young boy standing on the roof of a brand new Oldsmobile, completely buried in mud. That car is now under the new highway going through town.
In Sisters, we stayed at a great little campground and there met up with Carianne, retired from the University of Oregon and her rescue dog, Sweetie. Carianne was met by friends from Portland who were going up into the John Day fossil beds to check out the sabre tooth tigers, mastodons and woolly mammoths, not to mention the thousands of years old native sandals recently discovered. She was very knowledgeable about the area and I enjoyed speaking with her.
In Dayville, where we stopped for lunch one day, I ran into Twyla and Dave, cyclists from Reno, Nevada who are also doing the TransAm, but staying in motels all the way. We ran into them again the next day, as we all toiled up and over the Dixie Pass, through the rain and snow, bound for Baker City and their motel for the night. Myrna and I agreed we’d pull in to an RV Park near Sumpter , just 6k down the road. And here’s where the story gets really bad. I zoomed down the pass, water splashing up at me from the road and pouring down on me from above. When I got to the turnoff, Myrna was nowhere in sight. Should I go the three miles up to Sumpter and hope she is there? Or maybe that wasn’t the right turnoff. I tried texting. No answer. I decided to carry on down the road, thinking she would realize I’d missed the turn and come to find me.
Well, suffice to say, I rode another 36 miles (57k) down the road, all the way to Baker City. My hands were so cold, I couldn’t shift. I was so cold, the only way to keep warm was to keep pedalling. There was nowhere to stop in and get warm, and Myrna was not coming to find me. So I rolled into Baker City and headed to a saloon on Main Street. I had to ask a customer to help me take my helmet off for me. My fingers weren’t working. The waitress brought me a cup of tea and a bowl of soup. I was shaking so badly, it took me 10 minutes to tap out a text to Myrna to come and save me — which she did. The lemon ginger tea and the tomato basil soup were the best I have ever tasted. I had seconds of both. The lady who helped me with my helmet strap came over and offered to take me to her home for a hot bath and a warm bed. I am so grateful for the kindness of strangers. Maybe being on a bike means you have a kind of vulnerability that invite such kindness. And then Myrna arrived.
Technology Has Not Been My Friend!
We get so used to being connected electronically at all times. Instant updates, texts, phone calls, tweets, emails. Well, for much of this trip, we have no cell coverage or WiFi coverage. I actually find it quite liberating. Being out in nature is by far superior to instant access to the latest news. Today, as I do the laundry at the Sumpter Pines RV Park, I am listening to CNN News for the first time in a week. I don’t think I’ve missed much. Donald Trump is still up to his usual shenanigans, and the world is still turning on its axis. That said, Myrna’s US-purchased cell phone cannot be relied upon. And I’m not sure the Spot Tracker is sending messages as it should (most likely this is my lack of expertise). We tried watching “Game of Thrones” but the DVD player froze after 10 minutes into the show.
To my family, my work colleagues and my running pals, don’t worry. I’m doing just fine. This is truly an adventure of a lifetime. I realize that riding my bike is a full-time job right now. Preparing to ride, keeping fueled, wearing the right gear, and making sure all mechanicals are in order, not to mention spending 7 hours in the saddle, make for a long day. The first few days I was pretty tired, but I think my body is getting used to the drill. I will follow my good friend Don’s advice, and make sure I take a rest day once a week. (Don, thank you also for the tip on the gatorskin tires. At least I haven’t had to worry about flats — knock on wood!)
Camping Food Always Tastes Great
Our little van, Priscilla, has been a great home away from home, and my support crew of Myrna and Basil are the best travelling companions I could ask for. I live for a hot, strong coffee each morning and a cold beer at the end of a long day. We make porridge with blueberries in the van each morning and chili or soup in the evening. The best meal of the week (and I learned this from other cyclists who have done this route) was a cheesy chicken burrito and a local micro brewed beer. Ahhhhh! What could be better than that??
I am trying to keep up with daily postcards for Dad, TJ and Katie. They should start arriving soon! And I will try to keep up my blog posts weekly — and the laundry clean!
Next week .. into Idaho and the Snake River Gorge, then on to Missoula!
So, today was my last day at work. My colleagues organized a little send-off for me, and presented me with a SpotTracker so they can keep track of my ride and make sure I’m safe. I have the best colleagues in the world! Thank you so much. You guys are awesome.
I have been playing with my new GoPro as well, and recorded my last ride in to work, just to be sure I know how the technology works.
The plan is to head out tomorrow morning early and make it to Spokane by nightfall. Good-bye Golder. Good-bye Calgary. No turning back now!
Just over three weeks to go! For those of you who have asked, here is a photo of the route we will be following. We start in Florence Oregon on about the 17th of May and, if all goes well, finish close to Virginia Beach, Virginia — 12 weeks later. The route goes through 10 states: Oregon, Idaho, Montana, Wyoming, Colorado, Kansas, Missouri, Illinois, Kentucky and Virginia — a total of 4, 233 miles (6,723 km). I will try to average 100 km a day, six days a week and take one day off each — hopefully to relax with a couple of cold beers by a nice lake.
If anyone is interested in more details on the route, you can check it out at AdventureCycling.org. This is a fantastic not-for-profit organization, whose mission is to get people out exploring their world by bicycle. The TransAmerica route celebrates its 40th anniversary this year, so I expect there will be lots of people riding — some east to west; some going my way.
I would welcome company on any portion of the route. If you think you might want to ride a section with me (or maybe join me for a brew), let me know and we’ll see if we can link up!
With just one month left before setting out on this epic journey across the USA, I am having a hard time focusing on work. I realize that my lifelong dream of biking across America is really going to happen.
We have lists of “things to do before we leave, and as tasks are completed, the lists seem to grow longer, not shorter. I have “mustering stations” set up in rooms all over the house: biking gear, tools, clothes, electronics, camping stuff. I fear it’s way too much and yet I worry that it might not be everything we need. How many pairs of underwear? Will I need rain pants? What kind of phone should we get? Should we even bring a phone or use it to take photos and forget a real camera? Do I need GPS? Dog spray?
I have never been away from home for four months and although I am very excited, I am nervous too. What if I get sick or injured — can we make it home? Will the house be OK? Will we get homesick?
Many of you have asked if I will maintain a blog while I am away. Although I am very new at this, I will do my best to keep connected with everyone I love back at home.